Fendi Fall Winter 2023-2024 Menswear. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Fendi.
Something to notice: this collection is flued, elegant, and even feminine. And Indeed unisex. During this menswear show you can see many female models. Unisex looks interpreted by Silvia Venturini Fendi have their own, urban way of seeing things. I’d definitely pick up a look or two for my day-to-day wardrobe.
Designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi this collection is the ultimate study of sophisticated comfort, the opulence of the everyday, and the elegance of the unexpected.
The Fendi headquarters in Milan transformed into a giant roller disco pinball machine, with a custom disco soundtrack entitled “After Dark”, specifically created by the legendary Italian composer and producer Giorgio Moroder.
With a subverted classicism inherent to the Fendi name, expressions of shimmer and shine are embedded in a landscape of sartorial experimentation. Trompe l’oeil clothes that trick the eye are the result of dynamic workmanship- house codes twisted to create new gestures of plush texture and patina. By exploring the decadence of the city and the lights that sparkle after dark, lines are blurred between tough and traditional menswear silhouettes with a new soignee allure.
Asymmetry and volume infuse the sartorial wardrobe with geometry and movement, revealing layers of craftsmanship and flashes of skin. Celebrating the hallmarks of Fendi materiality, double-faced (and reversible) cashmere, engineered leathers and jacquard silks are illuminated by the disco ball hues of silver, indigo and violet. They lift a sober palette that undulates between shades of dove grey, oatmeal, burnt umber, mocha, mauve, lavender, deep navy and black.
Unfolding in parallel gestures throughout, cocooning outerwear plays against the sensuality of languid knits and deconstructed shirting to question the boundaries of utility and artifice. Closed with O’Lock zippers, blanket coats and ponchos swaddle ribbed cashmere track separates; sweater vests fall off the shoulder; fluid trousers are cut with a draped skirt.
Double-breasted overcoats featuring satin lapels, fringed hems or a scattering of metallic applique Trembling offer purity amidst layered silhouettes. Mixed textures abound from camel hair jersey to Shetland wool flannel, sprayed shearling and FF fleece, as shadow effects create antique finishes in waxed and burnished leather or overdyed denim. Disappearing into geometric abstraction, the Fendi astuccio motif is reimagined with a larger than-life logo woven into mohair scarves, blankets, fringed linings and ‘pinstripe’ tailoring. The effect is of a subtle extravagance: the Fendi man in his element on the streets, at home, or on the dancefloor.
The Fendi accessories collection is infused with a playful glamour, exploring the season’s hybrid formality with a heightened precision. The Peekaboo evolves with bold metallic strap hardware, sprayed shearling or harness detailing, and the Baguette is revisited in burnished leather with all-over utility pockets. In a soft folding gesture, a new hobo satchel is finished in Fendi Shadow suede or grained leather, and woven FF cashmere bucket bags hold fringed blankets. On the new Chiodo backpack, ergonomic straps pivot on a metallic hinge, creating a futuristic design statement when paired with the Fendi Shadow black leather.