Franck Sorbier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2024 “The Song of the Healers”. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Franck Sorbier / Laurent Stephane Montfort.
In his latest haute couture collection for Spring Summer 2024, Franck Sorbier takes us on a mesmerizing journey into the ancient world of women healers. Titled “The Song of the Healers,” the collection is a tribute to the powerful and mystical figures who, since the dawn of time, have played a crucial role in the healing arts.
The inspiration for Sorbier’s collection draws from the rich tapestry of history, where women healers existed even in prehistoric times. Jean M. Auel’s exploration of these formidable figures becomes a central theme, providing a narrative woven with in-depth research and academic rigor. Sorbier captures the essence of Auel’s vision, celebrating the women healers who, armed with supposed particular gifts, practiced healing through empirical or magical means.
The designer delves into the blurred boundaries between doctors, healers, and witches during the Middle Ages in Europe, echoing the complexities faced by these women in their pursuit of healing outside the scientific practice of medicine. The varied roles of women healers around the world, from magnetizers and dowsers to bonesetters and exorcists, find representation in Sorbier’s exquisite creations.
Sorbier’s ancestral homage extends to the diverse categories of healers in Switzerland, each with their unique approach to addressing health problems. The inclusion of healing priests in the Catholic religion and the historical context of the illegal practice of medicine in 19th-century France adds layers of depth to the collection.
The designer’s maternal roots in the Basque country find expression in the term “Sorgina,” symbolizing women healers. The persecution faced by these healers during the 17th century Catholic Inquisition remains engraved in collective memory, a poignant reminder of their resilience.
Sorbier’s artistry shines as he translates the moonlit rituals of the “Sorgina” into his designs, taking inspiration from Goya’s painting “Aquelarre.” The connection between these healers and nature is beautifully portrayed through the use of materials and motifs that reflect their deep understanding of plants, leaves, roots, flowers, and tubers. The garments seem to communicate with the elements, birds, wolves, and all wild creatures, echoing the universal knowledge these healers possessed.
The collection pays homage to famous healers throughout history, from Zouave Jacob in France to Mary Baker Eddy in the United States and Grigori Rasputin in Russia. Sorbier seamlessly weaves the past into the present, acknowledging the relevance of women healers today. The resurgence of naturopathy, meditation, and ancient healing practices is celebrated as a vital force in contemporary society.
In a world where the pursuit of well-being has become paramount, Sorbier’s “The Song of the Healers” emerges as a beacon of humanist couture. The collection not only showcases exquisite craftsmanship and design but also carries a profound message — a celebration of the timeless wisdom and healing practices that have endured through the ages. Franck Sorbier, with dignity, class, and expertise, has created a masterpiece that transcends fashion, inviting us to embrace the essence of couture that does good.