Gucci Spring Summer 2025 “Freedom”. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Gucci.

The Spring Summer 2025 menswear collection by Gucci, under the creative direction of Sabato De Sarno, is a testament to ever-evolving landscape. Debuting at Triennale Milano, this collection captures a new chapter for Gucci, one where the elegance has no boundaries.

The Great Identity Swap

In a move that has left the fashion industry both baffled and intrigued, Luxury Group Kering, under the stewardship of François-Henri Pinault, has orchestrated an unprecedented identity swap between its two iconic brands, Gucci and Valentino few months ago. This curious decision has sparked a myriad of reactions, with many questioning the rationale behind it.

Sabato De Sarno, who took the helm at Gucci nine months ago after a successful stint at Valentino, has brought a fresh perspective to the brand. His appointment marks a significant shift in Gucci’s design philosophy, moving away from the hippy-dippy aesthetic championed by his predecessor, Alessandro Michele.

Conversely, Alessandro Michele, known for his “maximalist approach and vibrant “gipsy” designs, has taken the reins at Valentino.

A New Vision for Gucci

Sabato De Sarno’s collection for Gucci is a breath of fresh air. Titled “Incontri,” which translates to “encounters,” the Spring Summer 2025 menswear line is a celebration of the intersections between city and beach life, and the connections among people who cherish the essence of living, bold and elegant.

“This collection speaks of encounters – incontri – between the city and the beach, and among people who love life,” De Sarno explained, highlighting the core inspiration behind his designs.

The collection features a harmonious blend of urban sophistication and coastal relaxation. De Sarno’s vision is evident in the elegant tailoring, refined fabrics, and a palette that balances bold hues with subtle, earthy tones. The garments are designed to evoke a sense of freedom, allowing the modern man to transition effortlessly from the bustling city streets to the serene shores.

The Creative Exchange

The decision to swap the creative identities of Gucci and Valentino is, at its core, a testament to François-Henri Pinault’s penchant for perplexing decisions, in Frankenstein style I might add. It is after all in some may a monstrous experiment.

De Sarno’s approach to Gucci is marked by a return to elegance, with a focus on clean lines, luxurious materials, and timeless silhouettes. The collection is not just a departure from Michele’s previous work but a bold statement of what Gucci stands for today—sophistication, freedom, and an embrace of life’s beautiful encounters.

The Future of Gucci and Valentino

As the fashion world continues to digest the implications of this identity swap.

François-Henri Pinault’s controversial decision may seem like a risky gamble, but it has undeniably set the stage for a new line of confusions and losses. By challenging the conventional boundaries of brand identity, Kering makes brands lose their identities, and lose as a result their clientele, and stock. And it also means the death of Valentino. Perhaps Alessandro Michele is here for that – to make Valentino die in a slow and painful way, and draw all Valentino lovers to Gucci. 

In the end, the Spring Summer 2025 menswear collection by Sabato De Sarno is more than just a seasonal showcase. It is a declaration of Gucci’s renewed identity—a harmonious blend of city sophistication and coastal tranquility, brought to life by a designer unafraid to embrace the unknown.

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