Zegna Spring Summer 2025 “Mads Mikkelsen and the New Zegna Era”. Story by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Zegna.
Zegna presented its Spring Summer 2025 collection, an evocative showcase of innovation, elegance, and homage to nature. The setting itself was a marvel, with a field of linen blades replicated in copper, varnished in a sunny sentiero yellow—a color reminiscent of the Normandy fields at the height of linen harvest, as envisioned by creative director Alessandro Sartori.
Mads Mikkelsen, the Danish actor known for his role in Hannibal, was the star of the show, closing the event in a look that epitomized the collection’s blend of refinement and modernity. Mikkelsen wore the latest iteration of the Il Conte jacket, a deep-terracotta calf leather piece, paired with a chocolate-brown jacquard knit and tailored wide-leg trousers. His ensemble was completed with new Mocassin loafers and matching leather bags, embodying the effortless sophistication that Zegna is renowned for.
Sartori’s vision for this collection was a celebration of Oasi Lino, Zegna’s fabric of choice for summer. Committed to sustainability, Zegna aims to certify Oasi Lino fibers as 100% traceable by 2024. The collection exuded a nuanced sensuality and quintessentially Italian elegance reminiscent of the 1960s. Sartori infused the collection with a sense of lightness and insouciance, diverging from his usual disciplined minimalism with bold prints and abstract botanical motifs created by young artists. These prints, inspired by Oasi Zegna, were rendered in warm, organic tones, a signature of the label, and featured on jacquard knitted jumpers and silk shirt jackets with matching shorts, creating striking visual highlights.
Sartori’s genius lies in his ability to blend traditional suiting with luxurious sportswear, giving workwear a rich new identity. His approach is about hybridization of the highest order, reducing the categories of masculine dressing and liberating classics from their conventional codes. This season, Sartori introduced a groundbreaking linen, rendered crease-less through a manual sanding treatment, showcasing his relentless innovation in fabrications. A standout piece was a dense suede jacket in golden tobacco, impeccably unlined and deconstructed, designed to be easily disassembled and regenerated.
Intelligent design was a hallmark of the collection, with 90% of the sportswear lined with matching fabrics—linen lined with linen, cotton with cotton. Every detail, down to the newly introduced notchless collar, received Sartori’s laser-sharp attention, demonstrating his dedication to solving complex construction challenges.
The Zegna Spring Summer 2025 show was not just a display of fashion but a testament to Sartori’s commitment to sustainability, innovation, and redefining modern masculinity. It was a harmonious blend of tradition and forward-thinking design, setting a new benchmark in the world of luxury menswear.
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