Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2022-2023 last collection by Virgil Abloh “Louis Dreamhouse” or “Angels and Demons”. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
November 28, 2021 creative director menswear Virgil Abloh tragically died. Louis Vuitton with great sadness announced that Virgil Abloh worked on new “Dreamhouse” collection. Some time in December Louis Vuitton presented a review Pre-Fall 2022 collection.
And finally today we saw “Louis Dreamhouse”. This collection serves to consolidate the themes and messages of the eight-season arc Virgil Abloh created at Louis Vuitton. A metaphysical space of possibilities, 8th dimension of life – this is the new timeless collection of Louis Vuitton.
In a cinematic prelude to this collection a mind-expanding interior of ideas opens a door to the runway. “Humor is an entry point for humanity,” – once said Virgil Abloh. The Dreamhouse of Louis Vuitton is indeed multidimensional, joyful space where a man can have multiple looks, from sportive to classic, and all at the same time.
There’s well noted inspiration by Italian fashion. Renoir (French painter XIX-XX) paintings were printed all over the jackets, costumes and dresses, in a manner of Dolce Gabbana (Alta Sartoria 2019). Tapestry is one of the old handmade techniques today became “the new dream” of high fashion, and more and more used by luxury houses to show métier d’art.
And as this fashion story has Angels and Demons where else Virgil Abloh can go for inspiration?
The whole collection in fact is Dolce Gabbana inspired, with patchworks, flowers, jeans, and monogram logos of course. This collection has many innovations, and indeed has several art pieces. The looks harmoniously became sporty-classy hybrids. Oversize became a casual business wear, and sporty bomber became a part of a wedding suit.
And of course the most beautiful are the final pieces Angel-Seraphim-Kites, with their breathtaking kite constructions for the wings. When you look at the pieces you see Angels in white and Demons in black with black oversized caps with horns (or black cat ears). We can of course interpret these looks as Bride and Groom figures, but these significant for collection pieces appear from the beginning and through the whole story until the end. This Mise-en-scène leaves only one suggestion – Angels and Demons.
And I personally have a feeling that these amazing refine touches were given to the collection by Nicolas Ghesquiere, Creative Director Of Louis Vuitton ready-to-wear. And he is sensitive to this subject. Spring Summer 2021 Louis Vuitton ready-to-wear is a story based on “Wings of desire” movie, and this also the story about hope.
Fabulous collection of accessories and bags is another wonder. Optical mirage in a transparent new “KeepAll” bag created as a checkboard motif of Louis Vuitton Monogram squares, is one of these wonders.