Moschino Spring Summer 2024 “A Tribute to Franco Moschino’s Legacy”. Story by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Moschino.
In the ever-evolving world of fashion, celebrating a 40th anniversary without your creative director seems like a formidable challenge. Yet, Moschino, a brand renowned for its audacity, has once again pushed the boundaries by enlisting the creative prowess of four eminent stylists to pay homage to its late founder, Franco Moschino. The Moschino Spring Summer 2024 runway show, a tribute to the remarkable achievements of Franco Moschino and his enduring legacy, stands as a testament to his enduring influence.
Franco Moschino, a visionary designer who left us far too soon in 1994 due to AIDS-related causes, is a name that still resonates loudly in the fashion industry. In his brief but impactful career, he fearlessly challenged fashion conventions, especially through his playful reinterpretations of iconic pieces like the Chanel tweed suit and his unapologetic use of words as a medium for expression. Long before the era of social media, Moschino understood the power of fashion to convey messages and provoke reactions.
The creative challenge posed to the four stylists was to draw inspiration from the first decade of Moschino’s work. First in line was Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, a collaborator with Jeremy Scott during his tenure at the label. Her collection appeared to deviate from Moschino’s extravagance, focusing on elegance. She explained that Mr. Moschino had a penchant for classics, which motivated her to create clean, sublime, and chic pieces. Khakis, jeans, a white suit, a Perfecto jacket, a chunky turtleneck sweater, a heather gray hoodie, and a white T-shirt, along with a Kway-style jacket in taffeta, all designed for mix-and-match versatility.
Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, a Vogue contributor and stylist, took a different route by embracing what she called a “cunty cowboy” vibe. Recognizing Moschino’s legacy of subversion, she reimagined the cowboy hat, a symbol of white masculinity, with a bold twist. Her collection featured visual dissonance, with granny square skirts, patchworked denim and lace, beaded fringe on tie-dyed cocktail suits, and, of course, those iconic cowboy hats.
Lucia Liu, a stylist from Beijing, sought to meld her aesthetic with Moschino’s through florals and knitwear. She ingeniously combined these elements, along with ruffles, bows, and cut-out hearts, to create designs that felt refreshingly new and romantic.
Katie Grand, stylist and founder of Perfect magazine, chose to celebrate Moschino’s slogans with a contemporary twist. She coined the phrase “loud luxury” as a modern slogan, a departure from the quiet luxury that often dominates the fashion landscape. With a troupe of energetic dancers choreographed by Wayne McGregor, her black and white designs added a vibrant and dynamic dimension to the show.
Franco Moschino himself was known for his aversion to clinging to the past in the world of fashion. While he might not have embraced the idea of a 40th-anniversary celebration, it’s safe to say that he would have been delighted by the diversity and vitality that these talented stylists infused into his iconic work.
In this tribute to Franco Moschino’s legacy, Moschino Spring Summer 2024 reaffirms its position as a trailblazer in the fashion world, pushing boundaries and celebrating the enduring spirit of its visionary founder with the same audacity that has defined the brand for four decades.