Off-White Spring Summer 2025 New York

Off-White Spring Summer 2025 New York Fashion Week “A Quiet Debut”. Story by Runway Magazine. Photo Courtesy: Off-White.

Off-White, the brand that’s always had a foot in every city but no real home, made its New York Fashion Week debut with the Spring/Summer 2025 collection—surprisingly, its first-ever stateside runway show. Founded by the late Virgil Abloh, whose influence was felt from Milan to Paris and beyond, Off-White has always thrived on its borderless identity. Now, under the direction of Abloh’s chosen successor, Ib Kamara, the brand took to Brooklyn Bridge Park’s Pier 2, showcasing a collection inspired by Kamara’s recent trip to Ghana, the country of Abloh’s heritage.

Despite the hype surrounding Off-White’s New York debut, the collection itself didn’t quite match the excitement. Kamara, known for his relentless travel and work as a stylist, kept things close to familiar territory with a lineup that leaned heavily on sportswear staples and casual pieces. The women’s looks centered on athletic-inspired basics: leotards with plunging v-necklines and leggings split at the hem, paired with shrunken track jackets and skirts. There was a slight nod to layering with extra track jackets tied around the waist, giving off a relaxed, almost lazy vibe that’s more about practicality than innovation.

1 Off White Spring Summer 2025 New York Runway Magazine

2 Off White Spring Summer 2025 New York Runway Magazine

3 Off White Spring Summer 2025 New York Runway Magazine

For the men’s side, Kamara introduced zippered panels on vests, jackets, and trousers, adding a touch of functionality that felt more utilitarian than stylish. Kamara himself walked out in jeans with unzipped panels that looked like makeshift pockets—useful, perhaps, but hardly groundbreaking. Other pieces, like a letterman jacket with logo patches and a hoodie featuring artwork by Ghanaian artist Nana Danso, added some visual interest but didn’t stray far from the brand’s established playbook.

The setting, with its view of Manhattan’s skyline and the laid-back vibe of Pier 2’s courts and rinks, provided a cool, urban backdrop for the show, but it didn’t elevate the collection. Even with celebrities like Flavor Flav, Zayn Malik, Mary J. Blige, and Camila Cabello sitting front row, the clothes themselves didn’t quite live up to the star-studded atmosphere. Tennis player Francis Tiafoe, seated in the audience, was enthusiastic about the collection, but for many, the show felt more like a safe step rather than a bold leap.

Whether Off-White will continue showing in New York or head back to Paris next season remains to be seen. But one thing’s clear: while the brand’s stateside debut was a milestone, the collection itself didn’t quite capture the spirit of Off-White’s more dynamic past. For now, Kamara’s direction seems more about keeping the wheels turning rather than steering into new territory.

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Posted from New York, Manhattan, United States.