Rodarte Spring Summer 2024 “A Blossoming Extravaganza”. Story by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo: Daria Kobayashi Ritch / Courtesy of Rodarte.
At Rodarte’s showcase during New York Fashion Week, Kate and Laura Mulleavy unveiled a collection that can only be described as a symphony of florals for the spring season. The question of whether florals are suitable for spring was answered with resounding elegance and innovation. The Mulleavy sisters, true to their signature style, leaned into what they do best, delivering a runway experience that oozed sophistication and creativity.
The show opened with a striking gown that set the tone for what was to come. Its bodice, a masterpiece crafted from layers of purple and black lace adorned with intricate beaded embroidery, seamlessly flowed into a sweeping voluminous skirt constructed from strips of organza in gradient shades of purple. A matching capelet, adorned with the same organza ruffles, added a touch of whimsy. There were no wallflower dresses here; instead, the audience was treated to a grand opening that left an indelible mark.
While a few ballgowns graced the runway, the Mulleavy sisters primarily embraced a narrow and elongated silhouette. Silk bias-cut slip dresses, some adorned with delicate sleeves, transported us to the glamour of the 1930s. Yet, what made these creations distinctly modern was their vibrant color palette. Bright iris, peony yellow, emerald green, cornflower, and ultramarine hues, punctuated with black lace appliqués and velvet bows, firmly rooted these dresses in our contemporary era.
A true highlight of the collection was a trio of dresses fashioned from an all-over beaded fabric. A ballet pink column dress with a delicate peplum and halter neckline exuded grace. An emerald green short-sleeved number with a ruffled hem and sculptural neckline drew gasps of admiration. And a drop-waist column gown, adorned with tiered ruffles in an enchanting shade of orchid purple, dazzled with its sparkly allure, a testament to the impeccable craftsmanship that went into its making.
However, the pièce de résistance of the show harkened back to Rodarte’s inaugural collection in 2006 – the iconic ruffle dresses. Vertical ruffles, meticulously pieced together from an array of silk fabrics, including organza, chiffon, charmeuse, and georgette, were adorned with delicate fabric rosettes. A shorter version in shades of lilac exuded youthful charm, while a long-sleeved creation in blue and white evoked a more dramatic effect. A sleeveless number, a vivid interplay of red, yellow, green, purple, black, and turquoise, demonstrated the designers’ unparalleled mastery of color.
In conclusion, Rodarte’s Spring Summer 2024 collection was a triumphant return to their roots while showcasing their growth and innovation. With a nod to florals, the Mulleavy sisters reminded us why they are renowned for their artistry and unique vision in the world of fashion. This collection was a captivating blend of classic elegance and contemporary flair, leaving fashion enthusiasts eagerly anticipating the arrival of spring.