Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2023-2024 Menswear “Genderless”. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Saint Laurent.
This collection is not for men, it’s not unisex, it’s for genderless. Anthony Vaccarello, creative director of Saint Laurent, said that “I really want them to be almost one person,” he said. “So women could be the men, and the men could be the women. No difference. I want more and more to put them at the same level. No distinction.”
Is that a positive message? The codes of timeless elegance for men, and codes of timeless elegance for women are gone. Now it’s just wide fluid black pants and large blouses with pussy-bows. How glamorous… or is it? This look has been known from the 1950s, worn by women, and from the 1990s worn also by some men.
Now it’s 2023, so what’s exactly new or innovative in this collection? Well, nothing. It’s not even old news. It’s just multiplied in 50 pieces used an overused look, created not by Anthony Vaccarello but by the street in the 1950s. Perhaps it is time to create something…