Schiaparelli Couture Spring Summer 2022

















Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 – PornHub Follies or “Schiap show”. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

This Haute Couture fashion week started with great sadness – Thierry Mugler left us. The King is dead…. And… Haute Couture fashion week started with Schiaparelli by Texan Daniel Roseberry.

PornHub Follies for Kanye West

Daniel Roseberry’s collection merged the showmanship of the PornHub Follies with the drama of sci-fi…. and looks so well chosen and reinvented from Pierre Cardin and Thierry Mugler, with slight difference that these looks meant for Kanye West.

Old Parisian Haute Couture House Schiaparelli opened its doors and made garments to present to former rapper and PurnHub Producer Kanye West, assumingly that these pieces will soon be used in his production. Daniel Roseberry, drugging behind name of Else Schiaparelli (or Schiapareli with one “l”), already last season proposed his garments to strippers, drag queens for their shows (and not the most elegant ones).

Apparently Daniel Roseberry likes when they say “Ouch”… Although he didn’t introduced “Haute Couture” surreal sex-toys like another Parisian brand (“On Aura Tout Vu”, translated as “We’ve seen it all”) did this season. Schiaparelli is a Haute Couture House with the identity linked to surrealism. So sex-toys should be surreal (tip). Sex-toys were not introduced just yet. We’ll have to wait for the next season.

Kanye West in black pantyhose and Julia Fox at Schiaparelli Spring Summer 2022
Kanye West in black pantyhose and Julia Fox at Schiaparelli Spring Summer 2022

This season Daniel Roseberry got more than excited as known and renown PornHub Awards Creative director and PornHub Producer, former rapper Kanye West came to his show accompanied by “new flame”, new muse Julia Fox, known for her leading roles in erotic dramas and series, was testament to the brand’s heat.

Kanye West appeared at the Schiaparelli show during Paris Fashion Week with black pantyhose over head, like bank robbers from the 1980s. Kanye West got used to pantyhose, as he wore this “headwear” for different events like football games or glamorous evenings, according to the comments made by Snoop Dogg and Kevin Hart at the New Year show, which made millions of Americans laugh. 

2021 And Done With Snoop Dogg Kevin Hart (2021) – New Years Eve show

Daniel Roseberry, as a “visionary” marketer, probably already know that pantyhose videos are skyrocketing on PurnHub. So with Kanye West is a win-win situation.

Talking about Kanye West in black pantyhose. There’s probably another explanation to this. He’s probably still desperately tries to match his ex-wife. Kim Kardashian appeared in black outfit made for her by Demna Gvasalia, creative director of Balenciaga, for Met Gala 2021. There were no erotic meaning, but Kanye West took it in whole new level, so as Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli.

Kim Kardashian Demna Gvasalia in Balenciaga at Met Gala 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Kim Kardashian Demna Gvasalia in Balenciaga at Met Gala 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Schiaparelli Spring Summer 2022 Couture or “Schiap show

Maybe for the public Schiaparelli show looked like “Haute Couture returns”… but from expert point of view – not so much. Let’s look closely. The gilding on the accessories is not gilding – it’s just a golden paint, no volume, looks “reinvented” or reproduced. Daniel Roseberry in his notes about the show, proudly published on the Schiaparelli web-site, said that the looks he didn’t even draw anything. Of course he didn’t have to – everything was already drawn by Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler and Pierre Cardin. He just needed to look at the sketches and make some changes, add accessories, and Bum!.. 3-dimensional!   

Suzy Menkes, known independent fashion expert, called it “Schiap show”. And it sounds like “Cheap”. Cheap show, yes indeed.

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

In pompous notes to the show Daniel Roseberry wrote: “What felt exciting was something more restrained. Suddenly colour seemed wrong to me. So did volume. All of the tricks that couture designers – including me! – used to communicate – grandeur and craftsmanship – felt hollow.”

Indeed this collection felt hollow, empty. After 2 years thinking about surreal, plunging into the archives of Elsa Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry came out only with nothing, so he came to “check” what’s good around.

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Daniel Roseberry and Cone-bra of Jean Paul Gaultier

I already expressed my opinion about iconic cone-bra or bullet-bra created by Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna in 1990s. And it is not clear why Daniel Roseberry reinventing and appropriating this creation. Read more about it in the review about Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990s - iconic cone-bra or bullet-bra
Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990s – iconic cone-bra or bullet-bra
Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli RTW Spring Summer 2022
Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli RTW Spring Summer 2022
JP Gaultier for Stephanie Faracy - Hocus Pocus 1993 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022
JP Gaultier for Stephanie Faracy – Hocus Pocus 1993 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022

I’m not convinced as I see echoes of Thierry Mugler and Pierre Cardin in this collection. And from the looks of it the volume is not profound – these are just scene costumes, and they can’t represent Parisian elegance. And they probably shouldn’t as they designed not just for Las Vegas but for Kanye West new production.

Pierre Cardin echoes in Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022
Pierre Cardin echoes in Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022

Replica of Elsa Schiaparelli “Apollo of Versailles” velvet cloak

In this collection probably only 1 piece is worth talking about – the “cloak of Versailles”. Daniel Roseberry made exact replica of Elsa Schiaparelli “Apollo of Versailles” velvet cloak for the Fall Winter 1938-1939.

Lady Mendl’s Schiaparelli cape. This is a museum piece. This cape was designed by Christian Bérard for actress and legendary interior designer Lady Mendl (Elsie de Wolfe), a devoted Schiaparelli client. Lady Mendl’s home was inspired by the fountain of Le Bassin d’Apollon in the Palace of Versailles, located near Villa Trainon.

Replica of Elsa Schiaparelli and Christian Bérard velvet cape Fall Winter 1938-1939
Replica of Elsa Schiaparelli and Christian Bérard velvet cape Fall Winter 1938-1939

In the engravings, the Greek god Apollo rides in a chariot drawn by 5 horses in a magnificent celestial design. The embroidery on the black silk velvet cape was made by Lesage in Paris. The cloak depicts the Greek sun god Apollo driving his chariot and raising his bow. Five horses gallop forward and are supported by a giant sunbeam, leaving a trail of dust behind. The dust clouds at the feet of the horses are the mirror reflections of the clouds in the sky. The contours of Apollo, bow, horses, and dust clouds are made up of small round sequins. The inside of the dust and clouds is dotted with silver round sequins. Apollo’s chariot and clothes, horse’s teeth and manes were made using golden trumpet beads. Gold metallic thread is used in the cape.

So what we see here is reproduction… replica… flat, without volume.

Appolo velvet cloak - Elsa Schiaparelli Fall 1938-1939 and Schiaparelli by Daniel Roseberry Summer 2022
Appolo velvet cloak – Elsa Schiaparelli Fall 1938-1939 and Schiaparelli by Daniel Roseberry Summer 2022

Here are some other looks.

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

So this is all about this collection – fake and flat for PornoHub.

See all looks Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022

See close up details



Posted from Petit Palais, Paris, France.