Thom Browne Fall Winter 2022-2023 “Teddy Talk” Show. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
Let’s start with a simple note: Thom Browne grew from Ralph Lauren to Moncler. In August 2018, Ermenegildo Zegna announced that they purchased 85% of the brand. Classic men finest suits and pleads are the playgroud for the designer.
Year after year he experimented with the fabrics, different silhouettes Thom Browne’s imagination brought him to the hybrids of the finest suits and second empire dress code. This Fall Winter 2022-2023 collection is his personal “haute couture” (if I may say so), Victorian imagination.
An extraordinary mix of fabrics, bows and pleads, became an epic story about the national Teddy Bear celebration. Pilgrim hats became casual Teddy Bear wear, with the woolen years, which transformed into balls.
There are obvious echoes to English Civil War of XVII century, so wonderfully recreated by Vivienne Westwood. Some looks are definitely relooking for Lady Vivienne, some transformed from Vivienne Westwood to Comme des Garçons Japanese version, and then become Japanese kinomo. The creative process of the designer is so well written in this story of Teddy Bear Fair. After couple of kimono green looks we see their transformation into clown costumes.
This extraordinary story is another Victorian follies of the designer, story of the transformation and caledoscope puzzles created by Thom Browne for the next Fall Winter 2022-2023.
See all looks Thom Browne Fall Winter 2022-2023
Photo courtesy: Thom Browne