Tweed History and Origins. Article by Guillaumette Duplaix, Editor of RUNWAY MAGAZINE, Keeper of Colorful Truths. Photos: RUNWAY MAGAZINE archives.
The name “Tweed” originates from tweel in Scots, meaning “twill” in English. Before it gained popularity as a textile name, the Scots referred to it for what it was: a woolen cloth. Unless you’re a fashion historian, you’ve likely never encountered the word tweel — the Scottish precursor to “twill.”
The story goes that Tweed earned its name through a simple mistake: a London merchant misread a handwritten letter from a Scottish fabric seller advertising “tweels.” He assumed it referred to the River Tweed, which flows through Scotland’s textile heartland — the Scottish Borders — and promoted the cloth under the new moniker: “Tweed.” And so, a misinterpretation became a legacy.
TWEED vs. TARTAN
Scottish Tweed shares a kinship with its more famous cousin, tartan, but each has a distinct identity. Originally, both were heavy woolen fabrics made and worn by Scots, using local wool and serving practical, everyday functions. Both exhibit repetitive check-like patterns, recognizable to most Americans as “plaid.”
Over the centuries, however, Tweed and Tartan followed different paths. Tartan became a symbol of clan heritage — a living genealogy woven into pattern. Tweed, on the other hand, evolved into a fabric of estate life, associated with modern family identities and regional camouflage.
More on the distinction between American plaid and traditional tartan READ HERE.
What is Tweed?
Originally, Tweed was a robust sheep’s wool cloth, tightly woven to resist rain and forest dew. Its rugged texture, warmth, and water-resistant qualities made it indispensable to Scottish farmers braving the damp and frigid Highlands. But Tweed is more than just fabric — it’s a construction technique, a philosophy of endurance.
Tweed is made from coarse woolen yarn, consisting of two twisted strands. These are then densely woven into a heavy textile, forming a tight, complex surface. Like tartan, Tweed relies on a repeated check pattern, but its colors and layout were historically chosen to blend into the surrounding landscape. Think natural camouflage — earth tones with local flair, sometimes dyed with regional plants or even specific flowers found only on that estate.
This process begins before spinning: the raw wool fibers are dyed first, resulting in a multicolored thread. Once woven, the fabric reveals a refined, variegated pattern — less vivid and more subtle than the flashy interpretations seen in contemporary fashion.
As word spread of Tweed’s resilience, it was adopted by hunters and anglers. In the early 19th century, Tweed jackets and coats became de rigueur for the sporting elite. Writers like Sir Walter Scott glamorized the rugged aesthetic, even wearing boldly patterned Tweed trousers — possibly the first time Tweed was worn more for flair than necessity.
How Tweed is Made
Each phase of Tweed production is infused with craftsmanship and tradition. While today’s wool may come from across the globe, the soul of Tweed lies in its process. Here are the main stages:
- Dyeing and drying the wool fiber
- Blending and carding the wool
- Spinning the wool into yarn
- Warping the yarn (grouping threads)
- Weaving the threads into patterned cloth
- Finishing the Tweed for quality
- Inspecting the final product for sale
In the dyeing stage, raw wool is washed and colored to match the desired pattern. While the traditional vegetation-based dyes are now protected in Scotland, artisans strive to replicate those natural hues with modern, respectful methods. Once dyed, the wool is air-dried to preserve the integrity of the fiber.
Yarns of different shades are hand-selected and grouped into beams — weft (horizontal) and warp (vertical) — and then woven by expert hands. Imperfections are tolerated, but minimized. True Tweed is refined in its final state: washed with soda and soap, then steamed, pressed, and cropped to perfection.
Types of Tweed
There are many variations, each with regional or stylistic significance:
- Donegal – Spotted patterns with distinctive white flecks
- Shepherd’s Check – Known as pied-de-poule in French
- Harris Tweed – Handmade in the Outer Hebrides using pure virgin wool dyed and spun locally; protected under the 1938 Harris Tweed Act
- Herringbone – A broken zig-zag pattern resembling fish bones
- Varied Herringbone – As above, with more color variation
- Houndstooth – Called pied-de-coq in France
- Cheviot – Made from wool of the Cheviot sheep of the English-Scottish border
- Cover-Coat – Denser fabric ideal for overcoats
- Bedford – Very heavy tweed, used for hunting jackets
Coco Chanel & Tweed
In 1953, Chanel’s iconic headquarters at 31 Rue Cambon was being renovated, after closing during WWII. A year later, Coco Chanel made her legendary return — and with it, a revolution.
She introduced the Tweed Suit: a double-breasted jacket paired with a knee-length pencil skirt. Elegant. Practical. Unfussy. A deliberate rejection of the corseted silhouettes championed by Dior and Balenciaga.
On February 5, 1954, Chanel unveiled a collection of 130 pieces — including her now-iconic tweed suit trimmed with braid. It was designed to be timeless, wearable from day to evening with just a change of accessories. The “impeccable” look and effortless comfort came from borrowing men’s tailoring, adapted for the modern woman.
Karl Lagerfeld would later say:
“The Chanel jacket is a man’s jacket that crossed the gender line to become the epitome of feminine elegance — timeless and effortless, in every era.”
Initially panned by the French and British press, the American media celebrated the “Chanel Look.” Orders flooded in from the United States. By 1955, the tweed suit was not just a fashion statement — it was a symbol of timeless sophistication. And yes, it was widely copied, becoming a hallmark of bourgeois elegance.
The Chanel suit embodies key design elements:
- A straight, square-cut jacket with decorative buttons
- A slim knee-length skirt
- An internal gold chain sewn into the hem for perfect drape
- Signature braid trim
- Patch pockets and open cuff vents
- A matching blouse or camellia-lined blouse sewn into the lining
Its origin? Surprisingly, the uniform of a Tyrolean hotel porter — where Coco Chanel once stayed in Salzburg.
Modern Revival & Cultural Influence
Today, Tweed is synonymous with sophistication. Haute couture houses commission bespoke versions woven from a variety of yarns and wool blends. Tweed has also been embraced by subcultures — from preppies to hipsters — who prize it for its texture, history, and intellectual flair. The tweed cap, once a working-class staple, is now a unisex fashion accessory.
Conclusion
Tweed has transcended social classes and fashion trends. Coco Chanel didn’t just use Tweed — she redefined it. Today, designers continue to build upon its legacy, celebrating a fabric that balances rugged durability with timeless elegance.
Tweed endures.
Not just because of its texture. But because of its spirit.
