Alber Elbaz – AZ Factory – Haute Couture Spring Summer 2021. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
Basically this sportswear collection presented during this Haute Couture fashion may go under the name “Look how much money I’ve got”. Alber Elbaz, former designer of Lanvin, simply decided to pay to the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode to be “on the list”. Not too many designers can afford it. Federation didn’t accept Balmain last season to celebrate 70 years of the house. But today Federation is more desperate and accepts everyone who pays. No more specific criteria for the Haute Couture to be named, based on what we see in this official schedule of Haute Couture fashion week.
It leads to one and simple resolution: you pay – you are in, no more criteria, and Haute Couture designers will leave one by one the Federation on their own adventures, as being named Haute Couture designer has no longer meaning or value (except money of course). The presented collection of Alber Elbaz, and his new mark, AZ Factory, is enter in the category of SPORTSWEAR. Fabrics used are typical for sportswear, produced in China, like designer said himself in the interview to ELLE magazine. It is not even pret-a-porter de luxe.
Federation announced “doobious” (from “doobie”) numbers, announced success for all fashion industry in 2020 years, according to its President, and all fashion professionals and designers in the industry in France are crying for help and closing their stores. So in one hand Federation is ready to accept everyone who pays, and basically don’t care about the designers or how they can handle “getting digital”, on another designers or manufacturers are not capable for any ideas to see the needs of the market, so they are not capable to expand the technology or produce something new, affordable, and responsible.
We know how all designers today responsible for production in China, sewing 1 zipper in France and labeling it “Made in France”. In November we made a request to 100 + different manufacturers and designers with one specific request related to our production of the bags (ecological, “Made in France”) – we got the same answer – we don’t do it, we produce it in China, somehow eco (maybe?), and adding buttons in France.
Perhaps this is the point where fashion industry has to do restructure and some serious remake for its foundation.