Best of New York Fashion Week Fall Winter 2022-2023 “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly”. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
Massive calendar of New York Fashion Week can definitely have a nickname “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly”. There’s not so much for “the Good”, mostly there’s “the Bad, and the Ugly”. 3-4 reputed designers presented their collections during this New York Fashion Week like Michael Kors and Oscar de la Renta, And pack of 30+ emerging and very emerging designers showed something.
Personal observation. When New York was on lock down and designers had to create the video presentations to replace the live shows they really gained A LOT. I actually find rather amusing and talented designers like Christian Cowan. Although now watching live show I can only see very emerging punk-ish designer, who borrowed velvet and plums from cheap transgender bar. There’s nothing new, lots of borrowed and I was getting blue, watching it. I’m all set for some fashion wedding I guess.
New York Fall Winter 2022-2023 fashion week Top News Headlines:
- Tom Ford cancelled the show due to growing pandemic in New York.
- 30+ emerging designers presented during New York Fashion Week 2022.
- No celebrities have been seen at the shows. Or they were not invited, or they didn’t come. Or emerging designers didn’t know where to look for them. FYI, they are all in Milan and Paris.
- Thom Browne only presented advertising campaign for his “Tartan” grey (10 looks). He shared a portfolio of images re-introducing his proprietary grey and navy tartan “flat in a frame”.
- Marc Jacobs also presented 10 fabulous puffer coat-dresses for Fall-Winter 2022-2023 season.
- Vogue announced “new trend” miniskirt for 2022, which is not kind of new, and not really a trend. Miniskirt has been trending since prehistoric times, but what the heck… And it is a good occasion to read more about the fascinating history of the skirt, miniskirt on RUNWAY MAGAZINE “History of the Skirt and how it became short, or Everything you need to know about the Miniskirt”. We published INPI archives and our research in October 2020.
- Vogue / CFDA (American Fashion Federation) decided to simplify names for the Fall-Winter seasons – way too long and complicated. Imagine for example, we have to note Fall Winter 2022-2023. Even though Fall and Winter start in one year and finish in the other they decided anyway to go for Fall 2022. Looks simple. But what if I want to see the new season presented and google it? Well, we all are going to see mash-up from 2 years. So I decided to keep correct season name, as it was made and named for the last 120 years to avoid messy demise.
- Vogue / CFDA (American Fashion Federation) are no longer consider Parisian title for the designers “Haute Couture”, and name it “Couture”. For the first time New York Fashion Week started to present Couture collections. As rumors say that new organization, which soon will take place, will allow to apply separately for Ready-to-Wear and for Couture calendar. It means that Paris lost its title “Haute Couture”. Vogue / CFDA decided that Paris due to its “diversity” (taken in all wrong ways) is no longer has this prerogative for this title. So as a result during this New York fashion week we had new “Couture” collections presented. It appears that meaning “Couture” represent today for New York emerging designers, a stage costume for Las Vegas performers, made of velour, feathers, tinsels and crystals. Well, “Couture” it is. I don’t know if all of you know that Vogue (Condé Nast) / CFDA not 2 organizations, but one. Vogue invest and gather designers, and lead them under CFDA flag to the “Couture” feature. But question is how bright could it be? And would Paris and Milan fashion federations agree to that?
New York Couture rules! Hands up to CFDA!
From crystal clogs making another drop – Marc Jacobs. Love this designer. Always did. Perky enough, very talented, and extremely creative. Something to notice. Did you ever seen a designer, who’s playing model and promoting other luxury brands? And here is it Marc Jacobs wears: Marc Jacobs puffer, sunglasses and beanie, t-shirt Saint Lauren, shorts Prada, gloves Marni, bag Hermes, shoes Yeezy Adidas Foam Runner shoes by Kanye West.
Fall Winter 2022-2023 New York Fashion Week Best Of
Zimmermann showed for Fall Winter 2022-2023 season ” Stargazer” collection, one of a kind magical story about a little girl, who’s amazed watching the sky. Zimmermann sisters worked for this collection with Anita Inverarity, a Scottish Artist, who helped to create the magical world of wonders. See all looks of Zimmermann Fall Winter 2022-2023 HERE.
Brandon Maxwell presented fabulous collection dedicated to his mother. It was an ode, absolutely beautiful story, a “Couture story”. See all looks Brandon Maxwell Fall Winter 2022-2023 HERE.
Libertine, Johnson Hartig’s curiosity drives him for more than 20 years to jump from time to time, from culture to culture, mix and match. Perhaps he is just a big kid, who feels free to play. See all looks Libertine Fall Winter 2022-2023 HERE.
Tory Burch “wrote” a love letter to New York. The inspiration for Tory Burch was the uniquely expressive style of women on the streets of New York. The collection was designed to experiment with in different ways. A toolbox for self-expression. See all looks Tory Burch Fall Winter 2022-2023 New York HERE
Michael Kors presented at the iconic music venue Terminal 5 in Manhattan, marking the music venue’s first fashion show, and the designer’s first live evening show. From the runway, which was illuminated to echo city lights, to a musical performance by Miguel, the show celebrated the allure and energy of New York City at night. See all looks Michael Kors Fall Winter 2022-2023 HERE.
Oscar de la Renta presented for upcoming season a video-story, another big city story about a girl, who sits in her office, calling girlfriends, and thinking to go out. This is just another story to show the pieces from office-wear to evening-wear “Gimme, Gimme More!” See all looks Oscar de la Renta Fall Winter 2022-2023 HERE.
Thom Browne for the occasion of New York fashion week presented 10 pieces of his Tartan. See all looks Thom Browne Fall Winter 2022-2023 Tartan HERE.
Marc Jacobs decided to present his new collection 10 pieces unannounced at the end of New York Fashion Week “HAPPINESS, CONTINUED” or “RUNWAY NOT RUNWAY”. The collection was photographed by Amy Troost, and styled by Alastair McKimm, Editor-in-chief of i-D magazine, starred Bella Hadid and Gigi Hadid. Such happy ending, or probably happy beginning. See all looks Marc Jacobs Fall Winter 2022-2023 HERE.
That’s all, folks! Nothing to see here anymore….