Dior Haute Joaillerie Show in Florence “Diorama & Diorigami”. Story by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Dior / Pierre Mouton / Adrien Dirand / Federica Livia.
Dior’s grand tour of high jewelry presentations across Italy culminated in a spectacular fashion this week in Florence. The house of Dior opened the doors to some of the city’s most prestigious and hard-to-access venues, offering guests a magical glimpse into Florence’s rich cultural heritage. The event commenced at the Basilica Santa Maria Novella, a Renaissance gem adorned with treasures by artistic legends such as Giotto, Brunelleschi, Botticelli, Lippi, and Michelangelo.
On Monday night, the basilica’s historic chapels provided a breathtaking backdrop for a candlelit dinner attended by 230 guests. The culinary delights were crafted by Michelin three-star chef Mauro Colagreco, featuring exquisite dishes like rosettes of prawn and artichoke and black truffle feuilleté. The lavish Italianate tablescapes were adorned with Dior Maison decorations, adding to the evening’s splendor.
The highlight of the night was the presentation of Victoire de Castellane’s latest high jewelry collection, Diorama, set in the basilica’s cloisters. De Castellane, who has been the Creative Director of Dior Joaillerie for 25 years, has revolutionized the world of high jewelry with her whimsical and colorful designs. Her latest collection, Diorama, continues this tradition by drawing inspiration from an aristocratic 18th-century fabric that Christian Dior himself chose for the walls of his first boutique.
The Diorama Forêt Enchantée necklace is the centerpiece of the 172-jewel collection. This masterpiece features a glyptic bestiary with a trio of does, a swan, a rabbit, and a squirrel carved in pale green chrysoprase. These intricate carvings are nestled within a thicket of foliage set with 1,300 gems, including white diamonds, cultured pearls, yellow sapphires, green tsavorites, and emeralds. The necklace is anchored by a stunning 16.16-carat emerald-cut emerald set amid delicate branches.
Enveloped in the midst of tangled Italian foliage, the reception at the Basilica Santa Maria Novella was nothing short of spellbinding. The Gothic facade of this Florentine Renaissance landmark provided a romantic setting for the Dior Haute Joaillerie presentation of the ‘Diorama & Diorigami’ collection. Victoire de Castellane’s transformation of toile de Jouy for this collection brought to life a whimsical gemstone forest populated by owls, deer, and squirrels.
Atelier Dior complemented the jewelry with looks. These designs highlighted the contoured notes of classicism, weaving nature’s own threads into the fabric of the presentation. The ‘Diorama & Diorigami’ collection cast a mesmerizing spell with its intricate details. Swans glided across glistening mother-of-pearl lakes in hues of blue, while a radiant pink moiré gown captured the light with resplendent sapphires in matching tones. A climbing garden of tsavorite garnets and a delicate frieze of flowers and leaves adorned the neckline, drawing attention to shimmering gold-infused birds and butterflies nestled within.
The single parure, dubbed Diorigami, offered a glimpse of what to expect in the upcoming fall collection. This piece hinted at a more graphic and abstract expression of nature, inspired by the Japanese art of paper folding and couture pleating techniques. These designs echo the timeless elegance of the Bar suit and the triumph of the New Look, seamlessly blending imaginative artistry with wearable fashion.
In Florence, Dior Haute Joaillerie turned the pages of a Neverland fairytale, with Victoire de Castellane narrating the wonders of her creations. From the whimsical animals in the Diorama collection to the fluid fabrics and sentimental motions of Diorigami, the presentation beautifully merged the imaginative with the wearable, leaving guests enchanted and eagerly anticipating the next chapter in Dior’s high jewelry saga.
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