Fendi Fall Winter 2022-2023 Menswear. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
Today Labirinto Arnaldo Pomodoro on via Solari accommodated a fabulous Fendi Fall Winter 2022-2023 show. Labyr-Into is the free interpretation of the environmental work, transformation of the creative journey into a physical experience made of bronze. No wonder why Silvia Venturini Fendi, CEO and creative director of the menswear line, chose this space to present a new collection of the house.
The New Roaring 20s, infused with old-world charm, the new men’s collection is a treasure trove of future heirlooms, envisioned with the flamboyant neo-dandy in mind. What’s new? THE TRANSFORMATION!
I’m in love with this collection and see how looks transformed from masculine to feminine and vice versa. Many looks are unisex. Several looks I’d definitely call revolutionary invention. Classic men’s costumes transformed into fluid silhouettes: men’s jackets into coat-caps, tailored like in the XIX century. These looks are contemporary, elegant, and extremely modern.
Fendi Fall Winter 2022-2023 press-release
Thrusting old world elegance into the New Roaring Twenties, the Fendi Fall Winter 2022-2023 collection designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi is a treasure trove of future heirlooms – reimagining a gentleman’s wardrobe for a neo-dandy riff on perennial classics.
Twisting and turning sartorial tropes, formality is disrupted in playful gestures that break the boundaries of archetype. Shades of black and cream, burgundy, raspberry, mocha, taupe and white form a rich, understated palette for tonal plays of precious texture and bold graphic statements. Traditional fabrics and weaves like Vichy check tweeds and hound’s tooth suiting, satin tuxedo trims and striped silk jacquards are scaled up and down in dialogue with ribbed sleeves, cable knit ensembles and the O’Lock chain motif as a new monogram.
Co-opting the symbols of a bygone male sophistication, the collection is adorned with 3D pearl and diamond digital prints, shearling floral brooches, pearl O’Lock chokers and crystal FF pendants. The strict lines of Fendi tailoring find new softness as modular garments combine suiting, knitwear and leather in unprecedented proportions. Blazers explode into flat capes, scooped jackets and keyhole knits expose the clavicle, and wide trousers sway with a half-skirt in tow. Outerwear assumes couture volumes with dropped shoulders and Dolman sleeves, sharp lapels and covered buttons – exploring Fendi craftsmanship in etched O’Lock shearling, complex intarsia shearling, and smooth leather trims.
As the ultimate expression of FENDI’s Roman elegance, subversive eveningwear silhouettes celebrate the art of dressing up with cropped double-breasted jackets, super high-waist formal trousers, and tailcoats worn over Mary Jane brogues closed with wristwatch straps. Nostalgic footwear includes patent O’Lock loafers with scalloped trims and two-tone wingtip Chelsea boots, whilst the new Fendi sneaker features a dynamic stretched FF logo.
The Fendi Fall Winter 2022-2023 accessories collection sees the Peekaboo bag pared back in its most architectural form to date, appearing as a large, structured shopper in solid smooth and grain leathers, FF logo paneling, suede and in the season’s Vichy check wool, named Peekaboo FForty8. The Baguette is upsized as an FF-embossed soft trunk and shrunk as an exotic miniature chain bag together with the signature rigid trunk in metal and plexiglass.
In a world first, both the O’Lock motif and Baguette design are transformed as luxury tech accessories for the LEDGER Nano X, the leading digital hardware wallet for cryptocurrency and digital assets.
Designed and art directed by the Italian artist Nico Vascellari, the Fendi Fall Winter 2022-2023 runway show takes place on a brushed steel elevated runway ramp in a mirrored FF configuration at Fendi HQ in Milan, with an exclusive live soundtrack designed by Alessandro Cortini.