Fendi Spring Summer 2023 Milan Fashion Week. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Fendi
“What is particularly interesting to me about FENDI is exploring the notion of functional utility alongside femininity – because the Fendi women are strong women with full, busy lives.” — Kim Jones
This Fendi Spring Summer 2023 collection is another page of ultimate elegance of Fendi. Primary colors of this collection are vivid green and pink-orange color (coral). Silk is dominating fabric, than several pieces made of knitted mink, and cashmere.
Karl Lagerfeld’s work from 1996 to 2002 offers the starting point for a collection that continued by Kim Jones. “It’s about continuity,” says Jones. “I am interested in looking at things that Karl has done, and seeing how we can develop them – both visually and technically.” A floral print drawn from the Fendi archives and a logo first introduced in 2000 anchor the collection in the past, but are reimagined for today.
Fendi’s unparalleled savoir faire, now lighter than ever before, and appear layered with technical fabrics. Sleek satin is hybridised with mesh, and grounded by elevated tennis shoes or rubber platforms: the inverted “F” of the Fendi First appearing as an illusory cantilever across footwear, in tribute to the house’s instinctive alignment of form and function.
“At Fendi, I am constantly thinking about practicality as well as luxury,” says Jones. “Adding heavy hardware to something very soft both gives it real functionality and makes it interesting.” In jewellery, “we are working with the rigid and the soft,” notes Delfina Delettrez Fendi. “The logo almost disappears into functional architecture suspending each stone.” Throughout accessories, this sentiment shines: a Peekaboo, now sliced in half to reveal its mechanisms, becomes one of the season’s key accessories; elsewhere a steel F falls through the body of a bag to become its handle.
“At Fendi, everything comes from the conversation around the double F which makes us see things in couples,” reflects Silvia Venturini Fendi. “Even the bags become part of a family: big and small.”