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Franck SORBIER Women of The World

Posted by RUNWAY MAGAZINE on 2nd August 201723rd February 2020

RUNWAY MAGAZINE ®

Maison de Haute Couture Franck Sorbier & Le Fonds de Dotation Sorbier

Unique pieces Haute Couture Fall Winter 2017-18 & Collection Fillettes

Peregrinations

Franck SORBIER : How to tell you … This collection has shown us all colors.

After certain number of ways : ‘L’Arte povera’, the paintings of Cuzco and the Ladies of the British Empire, I finally choose this. Why go elsewhere to find everything in Paris: variety of choices.

One season chases another. After the blur – return to the structure. After the melted tones – full light on the colors graffiti.

The silhouettes are more committed, the volumes more controlled but the charm always present. The waist is marked, accentuated by prolonged shoulders and “hips padding”.

This collection is a funny recipe. A mixture of patrimonial savoir-faire and a certain taste for provocation. A pure eye could see the perfect dresses, but the number of complicated changes in technics showing the opposite. An succesful association of “baroque 40”, “street art psyche” and timeless Spanish looks.

As for the fabrics, the ersatz rub shoulders with the silks. The end of stocks, second-hand coupons and drawer bottoms without follow-up such as plastic materials, silk satin, beaded motifs, velvets, organza satin, clock and gemology elements, heavy pancake with guipure and lace – there are so many treasures here, and there are rediscovered.

Ordinary fabrics are ennobled, and precious desecrated in colored or mechanical silver laces of Societe Choletaise de Fabrication.

And the same approach applies to the techniques: lace inlaid and applied entirely by hand, bias or macramé, hand-painted fabrics, reading or braiding and compression. The menu ” Made Franck Sorbier” signed the creations like on the first day.

Every dress named by noble name, not serious, poetical names as they wanted to be.

Dresses presented for several seasons by dancers, actresses, singers or even daughters of friends.

All this participates in a joyful hurly-burly.

The seamed stockings and socks of Gerbe Paris 1904, associated with 40 minded sandals, and the châtelaine d’Acaba Gantier length of opera accentuated this Parisian spirit which has this, I do not know what, the “Fashion Theater” (itinerant exhibition from 1945 to 1946).

From time to time a charming creature appears. She seems straight out of a bygone era, releasing energy and freshness that would be translated across the Atlantic by “You made my day”.

Ah, nostalgia when you hold us!

The girls are Fifi Brindacier in power. Princesses dressed in artistically hand-colored playful dresses, coiffed and shod with Star Trek, in anticipation of a big party organized on the planet of Mr. Spock.

When you travel you are young.

Frank Sorbier

Franck Sorbier by Runway Magazine
Franck-Sorbier-HC-2017-2018-Runway-Magazine
Franck Sorbier by Runway Magazine
Franck-Sorbier-HC-2017-2018-Runway-Magazine

 

Franck Sorbier by Runway Magazine
Franck-Sorbier-HC-2017-2018-Runway-Magazine

 

Franck Sorbier by Runway Magazine
Franck-Sorbier-HC-2017-2018-Runway-Magazine

Pérégrinations

Comment vous le dire … Cette collection nous en a fait voir de toutes les couleurs.

Après un certain nombre de pistes : l’Arte povera, les peintures de Cuzco et les Ladies de l’Empire Britannique, je me suis finalement posé ici. Pourquoi aller chercher ailleurs tout ce qui se trouve à Paris : la diversité.

Une saison en chasse une autre. Après le flou, retour au structuré. Après les tonalités fondues, pleins feux sur les coloris grafitti.

Les silhouettes sont plus engagées, les volumes plus controlés mais le charme reste omniprésent. La taille est marquée, accentuée par des épaules prolongées et des hanches “hips padding”.

Cette collection, c’est une drôle de recette. Un mélange de savoir-faire patrimonial et d’un goût certain pour la provocation. Un oeil non averti pourrait penser à des robes de fortune mais le nombre d’heures laborieuses suffit à démontrer le contraire. Une association audacieuse de “baroque 40”, de “street art psyché” et d’espagnolades intemporelles.

Quant aux tissus, les ersatz côtoient les soieries. Les fins de stocks, les coupons d’occasion et les fonds de tiroirs sans suite comme les matières plastiques, le satin de soie, les motifs perlés, les velours, l’organza satin, les éléments d’horlogerie et de gémologie, le crêpe lourd mais aussi la guipure et les dentelles, sont autant de trésors dénichés ça-et-là ou tout simplement redécouverts.

Les matières roturières sont ennoblies et les étoffes précieuses désacralisées comme les lacets colorés ou la dentelle mécanique argent de la Société Choletaise de Fabrication.

Il en est de même pour les techniques : les dentelles incrustées et appliquées entièrement à la main, le biais ou encore le macramé, les tissus peints à la main, la lirette ou bien le tressage et la compression. La carte du “fait maison” griffe les créations comme au premier jour.

Chaque modèle est intitulé par un nom à particule, pas sérieux pour un sou, des noms de code qui n’en font qu’à leurs têtes.

Des tenues présentées depuis plusieurs saisons par des danseuses, des comédiennes, des chanteuses ou bien encore des filles d’amis.

Tout cela participe à un joyeux tintamarre.

Le bas à couture et la socquette de Gerbe Paris 1904 associés à des sandales esprit 40 et la châtelaine d’Acaba Gantier longueur opéra accentuent cet esprit parisien qui a ce je ne sais quoi du “Théatre de la Mode” (expo itinérante de 1945 à 1946).

De temps en temps, une charmante créature apparaît. Elle semble tout droit sortie d’une époque révolue, dégageant une énergie et une fraîcheur que l’on traduirait outre-atlantique par “You made my day”.

Ah, nostalgie quand tu nous tiens !

Les fillettes sont des Fifi Brindacier en puissance. Princesses vêtues de robes ludiques artistiquement coloriées à la main, coiffées et chaussées d’acier à la Star Trek en prévision d’une grande fête organisée sur la planète de Monsieur Spock.

Décidément, les voyages forment la jeunesse.

Frank Sorbier

Franck Sorbier by Runway Magazine
Franck-Sorbier-HC-Hiver-2017-2018-Runway-Magazine-Final

Relations Extérieures

Maison de Haute Couture Franck Sorbier & Le Fonds de Dotation Sorbier

Madame Isabelle Tartière-Sorbier, Présidente

+ 33 (0) 1 75 51 70 55

+ 33 (0) 9 51 71 47 51

[email protected]

[email protected]

Relations Haute Couture & Contact Acheteurs Internationaux

[email protected]

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