Marc Jacobs Fall Winter 2021-2022. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
The new fabulous collection of Marc Jacobs for Fall Winter 2021-2022 season meant to be inspired and related to Japanese cultural garments. Marc Jacobs choose New York Public library as a venue. Shitagi, Fundoshi loincloth, Kimono were transformed by talented designer into very modern pieces. Strangely enough the pieces of this very creative way to see outwear for winter became related to something else.
Two years ago Pierpaolo Piccioli, artistic director of Valentino, created several outstanding and absolutely ingenious pieces for Moncler Fall winter 2019-2020 capsule collections. He transformed goose down traditional Moncler coats into puffer dresses. And by this he created absolutely new groundbreaking look, and new way to look at the winter garments.
Designers like Richard Quinn, Dolce Gabbana, Thom Browne tried new look, but I can’t say these efforts were successful. So Marc Jacobs decided to try this “puffer garment” and boosting it by his own extremely creative way. He mixed and match fabrics, adding cashmere to goose down pieces, adding glossy puffs to velvet or knitted hoodies. So “Japanese Samurai” how it was planned at the beginning became medieval knights with armoires.
The whole collection became one of a kind line, forming a new trend, associated with different cultures and different times. Even his reworked his monogram. Today many luxury brands taking their monogram and putting it in black-and-white on the bags. It became dull and trivial. Marc Jacobs came with another way to say his name on the garments.
Apparently lockdowns in 2020 and 2021 pulled Marc Jacobs a little bit above the ground, and let him travel trough the time and space, which gave to his creativity great boost. The collection presents masterpieces one of a kind.