Color analysis of DIOR Spring Summer 2022 Ready-to-Wear. Expert Article by Guillaumette Duplaix, Color Specialist, Executive Director, Global Editor-at Large at RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
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In this article I’m going to explain the color trends chosen by Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of the house, for the DIOR Spring Summer 2022 season.
We are going to try to understand the vision of Maria Grazia Chiuri, and what she is trying to express with her choices of colors, prints and symbols.
The identity of such an iconic house is always a matter of color. Christian Dior has two colors : Trianon GRAY, or Montaigne GRAY, and RED.
Maria Grazia Chiuri chose multiple colors, making them rhythmic.
Be careful with the colors! Well chosen they could result the magnificent looks, and random or chaotic choice could be exactly the opposite – the looks could be ugly, even vulgar.
Whether Maria Grazia Chiuri is aware of the color strategy, that’s what we are going to see when we analyze the looks.
Black & White Dior looks
We are on a heckled symbolism: a deceptively wise and classic style. These black and white looks suggest that they were created for ladies who often go to churches for confession. It is very Italian indeed. It is a medieval vision of the peasant women. Short, very short skirts and dresses symbolize the vision of the “little life” women in search of piety challenges. Italian version of “small minded” puritans.
There is, of course, no relation to Christian Dior codes. To say that it has a “modern look” doesn’t say anything. Puritanism is never modern, and it is always related to the refusal of something different, and even more related to the extermination… execution of any kind of diversity.
The 22 looks out of 87 looks from the DIOR Spring Summer 2022 collection are black and white “puritan” looks.
Orange Dior looks
Christian Dior loved vibrant and intense fuchsia and red, the color of love. With ORANGE, risk-taking is less. Maria Grazia Chiuri chose this color because she thinks that this is a color adopted by French women for its stimulating but less aggressive aura, and therefore more accessible than RED, and often considered more vulgar.
With the ORANGE we think that it is a careful choice by Maria Grazia Chiuri… We will find out what happens next.
Yellow Dior looks
Maria Grazia Chiuri chose the total look of one color. Although she ignored not just the color codes of Christian Dior, but also the codes in France.
YELLOW is not a favorite color in France, nor in the United States.
History shows us that its use does not have a “good press”.
I invite you to read my article about YELLOW HERE. This is a work tool to inform you about the history and values of YELLOW.
It is important to know what YELLOW represents before creating several pieces of total YELLOW looks.
Green Dior looks
Big pari of Maria Grazia Chiuri is to propose a complete look in GREEN.
My article on GREEN will give you instructions for using this very, very controversial color. Read it HERE.
GREEN is the color most associated with superstitions. You think these are ancient superstitions? Think again. Moreover GREEN is the most complicated color to reproduce, and it’s unstable.
GREEN is used in symbols of ecology, cleanliness, and sustainable development abundantly. In terms of colors, the choice is complicated.
By offering a GREEN look with short dresses and suits, Maria Grazia Chiuri is winging it, and hoping for the best. Will she win? We’ll see.
“Taste is the enemy of creativity,” – said Pablo Picasso.
Are we in front of a genius of creativity who makes fun of the Christian DIOR style?
Strong, current colors for the following looks. We are far from Christian Dior’s color choices.
According to Maria Grazia Chiuri, she rejuvenates the brand with tangy colors and rhythms, and the sporty looks. A result that is not at all classy.
John Galliano brought his extravagance, his creativity of course while respecting the codes of the DIOR house.
When I see the looks of Maria Grazia Chiuri, I’m in complete confusion. I see an anarchy of colors on boxing training outfits.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s vision: the woman of tomorrow will dress in boxing clothes with bright colors so that we can see her from afar, and she can start the fight with the individual who will try to annoy her.
And this is totally opposite to her Black & White puritan looks.
Once the boxing outfits are over, we see a variation of colorful looks with animal prints that we will find several times.
A message ? Not sure… Safari chic maybe?
I notice a confident rhythm of light blue and pink or red as well as a discreet appearance of orange added to the green.
Maria Grazia Chiuri offers us white jeans looks with matching pieces from previous looks. Already seen and more interesting by the price at other brands and above all, because the buyer is involved in the customization.
These looks are reminiscent of the customization that “bloom” across all urban brands.
There was a time when Christian Dior took us to cocktail parties, Maria Grazia Chiuri takes us on safari! but where exactly? Or even better – these are “true factory women” looks in “Off-White” mood. Maybe rich and depressed clientele who are thinking of going on an adventure in this outfit?
Once the safari is over, we prepare for an evening in these shiny fabrics of different colors. We return to the Christian Dior style with a shorter dress.
And we end this parade with long dresses as if it were necessary… Maria Grazia Chiuri took over the colors on soulless long dresses, off topic.
At first glance, I was delighted to see the choice of the colors. But when I started to analyze I discovered that in fact these colors hide a great sadness, a boredom… Where is the creativity of the house of DIOR?
These last pieces recall the DNA of the Christian Dior house but worn as if they were peasant women going to a ball. The most beautiful colors can fade when the energy is negative.
“Style knows who you are, what you mean, and what you don’t care about,” – said Orson Wells. Maria Grazia Chiuri, why would you present these looks under the name of the prestigious Maison DIOR?
Guillaumette Duplaix, Editor-at-Large RUNWAY MAGAZINE.