Vetements Fall Winter 2022-2023 Gvasalia Money obsession. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
In our new ecological world it is quiet unusual, even more – it actually never happened when the brand introduces collection 2 years in advance. Demna and Guram Gvasalia designers of Vetements brand presented suddenly collection for the next Fall Winter season 2022-2023. Do they want to book already the place or harry up to set up a trend for the next winter season?
Demna Gvasalia, designer of Balenciaga, his younger brother Guram Gvasalia, a businessman, gave couple of statements with this collection. Well, the money obsession of course is a leitmotiv of the collection. You can see them in background, you can see them on bombers and leggings, you can see them everywhere. Cliché, so loved by rappers in 90s, came once again covering the collection.
This collection is a some sort of resort, or capsule of more of the leftover of Balenciaga’s latest collections. The concept of covering the faces more and more resembles the concept introduced by Richard Quinn. But who counts?
“I did nothing, I just got lucky” – is another statement of this collection. And the pieces which so much resemble the pieces from Moncler Genius, so successfully introduced on the market 3 years ago. Well this is the trend from Moncler Genius for Fall Winter 2020-2021 season. The ingenious idea belongs to Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative director of Valentino, who the first one introduced the concept with Moncler in 2018. Then later this concept was followed up by Richard Quinn.
Does it look familiar?
So what is new? Except hitting on the Moncler Genius concept and long puffy coats, which will be introduced to public very soon, and Balenciaga leftovers, we can probably find nothing.
Let’s see the press-release for Vetements Fall Winter 2022-2023. It was introduced to us as a non-existing page from Wikipadia. Why not?
Press-release states that this collection is “originally catering to royals and the aristocracy, in the early 20th century couturiers focused on a new type of clients – industry tycoons and their families, who made money with everything from oil & real estate to butter & chocolate bars.” Royals, aristocracy, tycoons is overreaching of course. It is another reproduction of a marketing concept for bitcoin felons, rappers, hip-hop singers and their followers who prefer this street style.
And by the way do Demna and Guram Gvasalia know that there are some other values on this planet, humanity and ecology related, except the money?
Press-release Vetements Fall Winter 2022-2023
VETEMENTS AH22-23 Collection (also known as VETEMENTS FALL-WINTER
22-23 Main Collection) was presented on 25th November 2021 at 7:11 PM.
Originally catering to royals and the aristocracy, in the early 20th century couturiers focused on a new type of clients – industry tycoons and their families, who made money with everything from oil & real estate to butter & chocolate bars.
With the Fall-Winter 22-23 main collection, VETEMENTS is pushing to redefine the couture and savoir-faire of the previous generations for the new era, that is defined by all-new social and economic phenomenon’s that can transform a person’s life overnight – the new wealth of bitcoin millionaires, someone who invested 1000 dollars in bitcoin in 2010 would now be worth short of 80 million dollars; social media millionaires who rose to fame and wealth by simply being themselves and sharing the most private moments of their lives, and others monetizing even more private moments shared on their OnlyFans accounts.
Details of the collection.
Using technological breakthroughs for the first time in history, tailored pieces are fully created from jersey and molton, traditionally used only for t-shirts and hoodies. Presented separately and in full outfits where every item is created from the same material, these tailored pieces are crafted using the highest tailoring standards, while maintaining the comfort of sweats. Make it your travel suit, throw it in your suitcase and start traveling again.
The proportions of everyday garments have been modified using traditional
patternmaking and digital 3D pattern modification to echo couture silhouettes, while finished garments are stitched, sewed, and pinched over to create dramatic, all-new exaggerated shapes.
Reversed and upside-down layering – the garments are designed to be reverse-layered with t-shirts worn over tailored jackets and hoodies styled over tailored coats.
Transformable pieces – jeans and pants which can be transformed into different lengths, coats turning into jackets and padding which can be detached on outerwear pieces, to slow down the consumption and grant wearers the ability to wear their loved pieces in different climates, weather conditions, and environments.
Garments in disguise – trench coats with the comfort of a puffer jacket. Velour tracksuits from Y2K transformed into evening gowns, tops with integrated gloves, and tailoring. Velvet bathrobes bonded with molton morph into evening coats. Long skirts draped to become dresses.
Iconic rock boots by “New Rock” reimagined into giant platform sneakers #VETEMENTSxNewRock.
Full bodysuits with masks are like a real-life VPN – granting full privacy in a world where privacy is the ultimate luxury. While everyone is being tracked online by tech giants, the only place you can escape and maintain your privacy is offline.
The truth is that in today’s world dominated by social media and its sometimes toxic environment, you don’t need to be an influencer with 265 million followers to feel like you need some privacy in your life.
Luxury is no longer only defined by materials and craftsmanship. Privacy is today’s true luxury, and that’s why it needs to be reflected by luxury fashion houses.
All-over prints created from million dollar bills, computer chips used for bitcoin mining and winning lottery tickets, while monograms are reimagined with crypto coins and 5G icons. High fashion for the era of 5G high speed internet. And little aliens… cause we all need SPACE sometimes.
Recent studies show that when kids from generation Alpha, born after 2010, are asked who they want to become when they grow up, the top answer is rich, followed by famous.
It has become an obsession of the youth to get rich fast, overnight. “I did nothing. I just got lucky!”
We chose non-existent 1 million dollar bills not only to reference the illusive nature of wealth, but also because 1 million became a new symbol of success. Having 1 million followers or 1 million dollars means you’ve made it!
For the set of the show, we printed 1000 of 1 million dollar bills, making the set the cheapest most expensive set in the history of fashion, worth “1 Billion Fake Dollars”.
This collection questions many existential topics… How strong is your 5G connection to reality? Can money truly make you happy? And is the Earth really flat?