Best of Milan Fall Winter 2022-2023 Fashion Week. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
Milan became the ultimate fashion destination. This is the place to be and know it all. All trends set up here today. Fascinating as it was expected for the people all over the world to get ready for the shows… for people, who live in a world where people care about other people, where humanity makes sense, where we are solving ecological and social problems… the war and crime against humanity strike.
The shocking news about war came like a thunder. Designers, Editors, Stars and the gusts, we all were profoundly shocked. Here I’d like to mention Giorgio Armani decided not to include the music in his show, so the models walked runway in silence, Gucci urgently changed the soundtrack to the music of Alexander Balanescu – “To The Hills”, film music for “Partigiano Johnny”, an Italian war drama film set in the Second World War and directed by Guido Chiesa.
Urgently certain restrictions and measures were adopted by luxury houses and the media. Luxury brands closed their stores, and refused to proceed with the online shopping from Russian customers, RUNWAY MAGAZINE paused all scheduled advertisers to the further notice, and closed Russian country IPs to access our website, many media closed their offices in Russia.
As devastating barbarian actions against humanity are Milan Fashion Week 2022 took its course, as designers and the ateliers, including artisans, thousands people started to prepare the collections 5-6 months ago, and were ready to show absolutely outstanding creative work.
Trends Milan Fashion Week 2022
Two most important trends to notice – corsets and turtlenecks knitted headpieces. Oversized jackets and shirts are still in favor of the young generation, only this time designers proposed them to wear with the corsets of XVIII-XIX centuries, reinvented for modern society. As much as I hated, as a kid, turtlenecks knitted headpieces, now designers decided to bring them from 1980s back to match the oversized looks.
Max Mara embraced the concept of turtleneck knitted headpieces, Versace reinvented fabulous corsets.
Fendi Fall Winter 2022-2023. Kim Jones refracts two iconic FENDI collections through a distinctly contemporary lens, reconfiguring the past for today and considering the house’s signatures with a fresh perspective.
Alberta Ferretti Fall Winter 2022-2023. Alberta Ferretti looked into beginning of XX century for the impeccable grace.
Diesel Fall Winter 2022-2023 Milan. Recently Diesel appointed Glenn Martens – a great feature of fashion, extremely sensitive and talented designer, who’s capable to listen and reinvent the past, who’s capable to create the present and see the feature.
Roberto Cavalli Fall Winter 2022-2023. Bold, Pop, Unapolegetic Roberto Cavalli with every season have a wild drive. “She’s no longer held prisoner to the norm. Watch her break the cage and own her freedom with a series of signature animalier pieces. A foretaste of exciting things to come.”
Max Mara Fall Winter 2022-2023. Max Mara created new urban very modern colorful looks. Monogram appeared on several looks.
Prada Fall Winter 2022-2023. Prada new collection is a commemoration of life and living – of the occasion of everyday affording importance to each moment. An ideology of Prada becomes an etymology of beauty, a history of women. A salute to the profession of modeling. A history of women. Oversized men jacket, military uniforms reconstructed into elegant suits and dresses. 50s came back as a new modern elegance. Dramatic and than very fine transparent hybrid t-shirt / dresses adored with flowers. Kim Kardashian was invited as a special guest of Prada.
Emporio Armani Fall Winter 2022-2023. Fashion show explores the word “glamour” which become synonymous with sparkle, seduction and allure. In keeping with the Armani mindset, this collection takes the idea of glamour back to its roots: personal charm. And it does so the Emporio way: playing with an electric equilibrium of contrasts, accentuated by the use of bright colours for womenswear and a grey backdrop for menswear.
Moschino Fall Winter 2022-2023. It was planned as an interpretation of “2001: A Space Odyssey” movie by Stanley Kubrick… But you’ve got a magical “Beauty and the Beast” story from space. And you can get there only by drinking a little bottle “drink me”, so you can actually squeeze trough the hole like “Alice in Wonderland”.
I loved everything… Even a pseudo-Chanel suit, turned into a very classy bathtub with faucets instead of buttons, didn’t really bother me. I laughed…. Chanel with bathtub faucets…. Such a parody! Brilliant! Absolutely funny and brilliant!
Tod’s Fall Winter 2022-2023. “Italian Beauty” Tod’s Fall-Winter 2022-2023 Women’s Runway Show. Italian landscapes, recollections in a continuous evolution. Tod’s Creative Director, Walter Chiapponi, reimagines icons of Italian lifestyle and culture, transforming them into modern, versatile objects for everyday use, characterized by a refined and unique sense of quality and tradition.
Gucci x Adidas collaboration for Fall Winter 2022-2023. This collection of Gucci for Fall Winter 2022-2023 season in collaboration with Adidas Originals is a total success! Adidas and Gucci are joining forces in a new collaboration that fuses their creative codes and heritage. Signature silhouettes meet the combined creative codes of Adidas Originals and the Gucci.
Philipp Plein Fall Winter 2022-2023. “The roof is on fire” is the set of the new Fall 2022 collection. This season Philipp Plein presented 2 different collections. Plein Sport and Philipp Plein. This collection is a homage to the dramatic events in Ukraine.
Plein Sport Brand Launch with NFT and robot. Plein Sport is a hyper futuristic active sportswear brand. It uses the most advanced technological solutions with incomparable innovative design merged together with a thrill of the ultimate sport performance experience.
Versace Fall Winter 2022-2023. Absolutely spectacular collection Versace presented tonight. Despite announced trends for the next season by different media Versace made her own trend – a corset. And not just any corset, reinvented version of the corset known in XVIIth-XVIIIth century.
Dolce Gabbana Fall Winter 2022-2023. “How Dolce Gabbana went Zara-esk”. The collection looks like a marketing concept of Balenciaga and Saint Laurent interpreted with slight modification by Dolce Gabbana. What Dolce Gabbana became today is a new “ZARA”, luxury, very expensive “Zara”.
Giorgio Armani Fall Winter 2022-2023. In the intimate setting of a small theatre that has the personal feel of a jewellery box, Giorgio Armani once again returns to the signs that identify his style with the new collection. First, softness, expressed in fluid and elongated silhouettes that dance with every step. Followed by the precision of exact constructions and the sense of an elegance created by renouncing the superfluous rather than excess.
Ferrari Fall Winter 2022-2023. Speed, light, technology. The ultimate symbiosis awaits with the Ferrari new collection. The collection was presented at the industrial heart of Milan. The transportation of the marque’s cultural vision, from Maranello to the fashion capital, encapsulates a new narrative in speed, light technology and the future. Pronounced silhouettes, enhanced by bold prints, exquisite materials and refined detailing, ushered in a new era, characterized by passion, pride and style.
Bottega Veneta Fall Winter 2022-2023. Daniel Lee, former designer of Bottega Veneta, left November 10th 2021 the brand for his known adventures. This designer set several trends, like ultra green huge rain boots and handbags. Many brands followed, and the brand gained in popularity among young generation, and in sales. So far so good, his place took his apprentice Matthieu Blazy. Expectations… expectations… expectations…